Wine in the News: Bordeaux Bashing

A recent article in the New York Times by Eric Asimov about Bordeaux sent the wine world into a bit of a tizzy.* Apparently younger wine drinkers are turning their backs on Bordeaux, home of some of the most historic (and historically expensive) wines to seek out those with a better price and a more personal story.

I'm not exactly sure what Asimov means by younger: Under 40? Under 30? If it's the former, then I'm flattered, as I am a (barely) younger wine drinker. If it's the latter, I say to these kids: "Get off my lawn!"

I understand that Bordeaux has an image problem. It's the epicenter of wine critic Robert Parker, he of the 100 point rankings and laundry list wine reviews. Bordeaux is also home to chateaus owned by mega-conglomerates and investment bankers; the top wines are treated as a commodity rather than something to be enjoyed. (Though when a wine costs more than your car, I'd probably consider it too precious to drink as well.) This stuffy image of Bordeaux seems to manifest itself in the minds of younger wine drinkers as a classic generational gap. We don't want to like the music our parents liked, and we don't want to drink their wine, either. Discovering and nurturing our own unique wine experiences, like seeking out Austrian Gruner Veltliner or Chilean Carmenere, has become paramount. (And here is where we must tip our glass to all the wine importers, restaurants, retail shops, and ahem wine writers and bloggers for discovering and championing global wines.

So how do we go about solving this image problem of Bordeaux? One way is to sell it by the grapes in the bottle not the name: "You want a good Cabernet Sauvignon? Merlot? A blend? Try this one from Bordeaux." The majority of domestic wine drinkers are familiar with these grapes and tend not to respond to your suggestions with a glazed-over look. Like when you suggest a Mencia from Bierzo. I do, however, love and sell unusual wines. (I noted that in the photo at the top of Asimov's article, there is a bottle of Chateau Musar from Lebanon. This is about as esoteric as you can get, and I admire the adventurousness of a wine bar promoting such a historic and unique wine. Though I would prefer to drink a Bordeaux over the oxidized-style Musar. But take a long look at the wine list at Terrior; it's like wine dork's wish book.)

So how do you find good, cheap, interesting Bordeaux? It's out there! Go to any local wine shop and ask whoever is working for a $10-$15 Bordeaux that they like. Chances are these are the kind of wines that end up going home with those who work in the store after the doors are locked. And if they don't have cheap Bordeaux, ask, "Why not?" Or, more productively, "Can you find me one?"

That's what I just did today! I went to my two neighborhood wine shops had them pick out a Bordeaux for under 15 bucks. Tune in next week to see how they fared.

*Asmiov responded to all the hubbub with a very nuanced, thoughtful, and productive article that you can read here.

Jameson Fink is a wine buyer at a bustling grocery store in Seattle’s Capitol Hill neighborhood. He moved to Seattle from Chicago (where he dabbled in the restaurant and wine industries) five years ago to pursue a full-time career in wine. He’d rather be drinking Champagne and eating popcorn right now.

Above photo by alister66