Bread Info
Preparation
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After decades in which characterless, mass-produced breads - with their universally soft textures and mild flavors - reigned supreme at the store, artisan bread-makers, cookbook authors, upscale markets and even some supermarkets are resurrecting some great American loaves. Regional baking still thrives, according to Beth Hensperger, author of several baking books, including
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"Breads of the Southwest."
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Distinctive sourdough loaves of California, hearty multigrain and cheese breads in the Midwest, chili-spiked corn breads from the Southwest, yellow cornmeal and molasses "cakes" and buttery dinner rolls on the East Coast, and the fluffy white biscuits of the South: All carry the stamp of their early influences.
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"In the past, it depended on the type of people who settled in different places and the availability of different ingredients," Hensperger said.
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"Definitely the West is known for sourdough, and in Texas, New Mexico and Arizona are the border breads. It is very ethnic dominated."
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The Colonists were quick to adapt American ingredients to European traditions, according to Arthur Meyer, author of "Baking Across America."
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"When you look at the way the United States was originally settled, it tells you about the bread based on the climate and the kind of people who settled here, from the English to the Germans to the Spanish down in Florida.
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"As we had the western push and people started to merge, you started to see more of a blending," said Meyer. "As you head past the Rocky Mountains, you see elements of New England baking," as in Mormon johnnycake.
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Further migration continued to dilute regional identities, but many bread traditions still remain.
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"You start with flour and water and end up with a great loaf of bread," Fertig said. "It's a real sense of accomplishment."
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The West
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Blue and red cornmeal sticks; corn bread with hot or sweet peppers; and fresh tortillas may be appearing in upscale restaurant breadbaskets, but they all have solid roots in the old Southwest.
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"They think nothing of adding goat cheese and walnuts, ground acorns, pine nuts and other nutmeats. They will add spices like chilies and cinnamon."
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California, and particularly San Francisco, became famous for sourdough when airborne wild yeasts there helped bakers create loaves of the tangy bread. Once the state became an agriculture powerhouse - with its plentiful acres of vegetables, fruit and nut trees - these ingredients were incorporated into local breads such as olive rolls, walnut loaves and artichoke breads.
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The Midwest
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Wheat berries, rye, oats, honey, homemade yeast made from potatoes, the malty tang of beer and the richness of cheese can be found in many local bread traditions. Sourdough starter, a necessity when store-bought yeast was far from remotely located farms, also played a part in Midwest loaves.
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It's good to know that regional traditions still can flourish, Fertig said.
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Corn was featured prominently up and down the East Coast, baked into cake-style rounds, prepared with everything from plain hot water and salt, to the rich enhancements of eggs and butter. Colonists in the 17 th century made ash or hoe cake, baked right in the fire on hearthstones or the back of a hoe.
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The South
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The climate of the South had a great influence on baking styles. First, the soft, winter wheat grown there was a low-gluten grain more suited for delicate biscuits and pastries than for sturdy loaves. But just as important were the many months of warm - sometimes unbearably hot - temperatures that made kitchens so uncomfortable. The quick-cooking biscuits and corn bread were much better suited to Southern bakers. Although indoor air-conditioning has made the kitchen cooler, the tradition remains.
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"You don't want to have an oven on for too long, so those two things are the perfect breads for the South."
Tools
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Yield:
2.0 servings
Added:
Thursday, February 11, 2010 - 6:16am